All 24 Savannah Squares

At the top of Abercorn Street is Reynolds Square, originally laid out in 1734 as Lower New Square, but renamed in honor of the Royal Governor John Reynolds.

A stern 1969 statue of John Wesley, the founder of Methodism, dominates the center of the square. The British preacher arrived in Savannah, on an invitation from Oglethorpe, to be the new city’s religious leader. He had a troubled time here, becoming romantically involved with a young woman, only to later refuse her communion after their affair came to an end. She brought suit against him, but he escaped to Britain plagued by self-doubt, and never returned to Georgia. The statue strikes an imposing figure, with Wesley forcefully clenching a Bible that looks small in his over-sized, powerful hands.

The northeast trust lot of Reynolds Square is where the colonial filature was found; this is where silk from the experimental Trustees Garden would be spun. The garden’s planters wo
uld spend a lot of time in around the square, and a couple of the buildings reflect that fact. The Planters Inn is a 200-year old hotel on the southwest side of the square and the tavern on the bottom floor of the Pink House is called Planters Tavern.

We walked about Reynolds Square somewhat wistfully. It was the last of Savannah’s 22 squares that we had documented, and although we were relieved to have completed the course, it was a little sad. We’d spent so much time around the squares, trying to capture their individual characteristics; many of them started to grow on us. What’s your favorite Savannah square? Leave a comment, and let us know why.

I was surprised to find that both Juergen and I agreed upon our favorite… can you guess which it is? If you have some time to kill, check out an index of all the squares and links to our posts, here.

Location on our Savannah Map

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Madison Square, on Bull Street between Chippewa and Monterey Square, is possibly the most monumental in Savannah. With a magnificent 1888 tribute to William Jasper as its centerpiece, Madison offers a wealth of things to see both inside the square and around it.

South Carolinian revolutionary hero Sgt. Jasper was mortally wounded during the Siege of Savannah. He had found fame during an earlier battle with the British, when he recovered a shot-down South Carolina flag and held it aloft in the midst of heavy fighting. The statue pays tribute to that event, and includes other scenes from his life. Cannons from the Savannah armory protect Madison’s southern flank, and a monument to the ill-fated rebel siege on British-controlled Savannah can also be found in the square.

Around Madison, there’s enough to occupy an entire afternoon. You can visit the Green-Meldrim House, where General Sherman famously stayed during his time in Savannah. With its cast-iron fence and extended covered porch, this National Historic Landmark from 1861 is a stunning example of the Gothic Revival style. It’s connected to the St. John’s Episcopal Church. According to legend, the ladies of the congregation, offended by the next-door presence of the enemy Yankee, rang the bells without pause, through the night. Sherman responded by having the bells removed.

On the northwest corner of Madison is one of Savannah’s most famous residences: The Sorrel-Weed House. One of Savannah’s best examples of Greek Revival and Regency architecture, the house has found itself the subject of numerous ghost stories. It was even the subject of a 2009 episode of Ghost Hunters. Even if you don’t believe in ghosts, the house is worth visiting.

Across Bull Street is of Savannah’s most unfortunate buildings: the Hilton DeSoto. An ugly, towering blight on the city’s skyline, the Hilton has loomed over the middle of Savannah since 1966, when it replaced the lovely red brick DeSoto hotel. Continuing clockwise around the square brings you to the most popular bookshop in Savannah: E. Shaver’s. We stocked up on Savannah literature here when we first arrived; the staff is helpful, knowledgeable and friendly. With every conceivable genre represented, it’s a fun place to browse.

On the southeast corner of Madison is the SCAD shop, which is a great place to hunt for unique gifts. And should you need a break while touring the houses, shops and churches of Madison Square, you can stop in at the popular Gryphon Tea Room. With its high ceilings, comfortable furniture and classy interior, this former pharmacy is a great place to relax your tired feet.

Location on our Savannah Map

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The Complete Guide to Cemetery Symbolism

Far less heralded than Bonaventure Cemetery on Whitemarsh Island, but nearly as beautiful and free from almost any tourist presence, the twin cemeteries of Laurel Grove North and Laurel Grove South are great places to spend a quiet afternoon among the dead.

Laurel Grove was established in 1853, after the more central Colonial Park Cemetery was deemed too full and closed to further burials. With plenty of room on Savannah’s western side, the city fathers split their new cemetery into two separate sections: North for whites, South for blacks.

We didn’t understand that these are really two separate cemeteries, with different entrances. So we spent a long time walking around Laurel Grove North, admiring the gorgeous tombstones clearly erected for rich families, and looking for the south section. There was nobody on the grounds, save for one group of Girl Scouts jumping around on Juliette Gordon Low’s grave. We wandered to the southern extremity of the cemetery, through a field of graves for Confederate soldiers killed in the war, looking for the burial places of the slaves. In the end, we gave up and went home.

The next day, having being corrected by amused friends, we drove to Laurel Grove South. Just as haunting and beautiful as its twin to the north, but completely different in feeling. Not as many glorious, towering monuments. Not as many Girl Scouts.

If you’re looking for a lovely, desolate place to spend a few hours in Savannah, Laurel Grove is a great alternative the more popular Bonaventure.

Location on our Savannah Map: Laurel Grove North – Laurel Grove South

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Pictures of Laurel Grove North:

Now pictures from Laurel Grove Cemetery South: