All 24 Savannah Squares

At the top of Abercorn Street is Reynolds Square, originally laid out in 1734 as Lower New Square, but renamed in honor of the Royal Governor John Reynolds.

A stern 1969 statue of John Wesley, the founder of Methodism, dominates the center of the square. The British preacher arrived in Savannah, on an invitation from Oglethorpe, to be the new city’s religious leader. He had a troubled time here, becoming romantically involved with a young woman, only to later refuse her communion after their affair came to an end. She brought suit against him, but he escaped to Britain plagued by self-doubt, and never returned to Georgia. The statue strikes an imposing figure, with Wesley forcefully clenching a Bible that looks small in his over-sized, powerful hands.

The northeast trust lot of Reynolds Square is where the colonial filature was found; this is where silk from the experimental Trustees Garden would be spun. The garden’s planters wo
uld spend a lot of time in around the square, and a couple of the buildings reflect that fact. The Planters Inn is a 200-year old hotel on the southwest side of the square and the tavern on the bottom floor of the Pink House is called Planters Tavern.

We walked about Reynolds Square somewhat wistfully. It was the last of Savannah’s 22 squares that we had documented, and although we were relieved to have completed the course, it was a little sad. We’d spent so much time around the squares, trying to capture their individual characteristics; many of them started to grow on us. What’s your favorite Savannah square? Leave a comment, and let us know why.

I was surprised to find that both Juergen and I agreed upon our favorite… can you guess which it is? If you have some time to kill, check out an index of all the squares and links to our posts, here.

Location on our Savannah Map

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With a distinctive gazebo in its center and gingerbread houses surrounding it, Whitefield Square feels like a throw-back to Victorian times.

On Habersham and Wayne, Whitefield was one of the final squares to be laid out in Savannah, in 1851. It was named after George Whitefield, a British priest who came to the colonies and was largely responsible for the First Great Awakening. A movement which left a permanent imprint on American religion, the Awakening eschewed quiet contemplation and somber services in favor of loud, bombastic preaching, and put a heavy emphasis on personal guilt and the need for redemption. So when you see present-day televangelists screaming and crying and carrying on about the devil inside all of us… well, you can thank Whitefield for that. Stupid cross-eyed limey.

But Whitefield also put great worth in the importance of public deeds, and did his part by establishing the Bethesda Orphanage just outside Savannah. Still in use today, this was the very first orphanage in all North America.

Whitefield Square is fun to explore, as long as you don’t mind the occasional pan-handler. The gazebo in the center is usually the exclusive domain of vagabonds, and some of the housing surrounding the square is decidedly low-rent. But, there are plenty of gorgeous homes. And the Congregational Church on the square’s west side is a handsome building, consecrated in the late 19th century.

Location on our Savannah Map

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The Olde Pink House, on the western side of Reynolds Square, was built in 1771 and is the oldest surviving mansion in all of Savannah. And, boy, is it pink. Pink as cotton candy.

The mansion was originally built for James Habersham, who committed suicide in the basement after discovering that his wife was having an affair with the architect. This being Savannah, Habersham’s ghost now wanders the halls of the house, which has been converted into one of the city’s best-loved restaurants. Most of the wait staff will claim to have encountered him at least once.

We didn’t see any apparitions during our dinner at the Pink House, but it’s certainly a suitable place for them. Each of the low-lit rooms in this multi-floor restaurant are decked out with original artwork and furniture, and the effect is spooky, especially at night. I felt transported back to the 18th century as we were led to our table, and after ordering I made sure to tour around the entire restaurant to admire the individual rooms (and to ghost-bust).

As fascinating as the history is, and as impressive the decor, the best thing about our experience at the Pink House was the food. Good lord. On a breathless recommendation from a friend, I tried the flounder, perfectly cooked and covered in a rich apricot sauce. It’s one of their specialties, and for good reason. Juergen had pecan crusted chicken breast. We both found collards on our plate — neither of us had tried them before, and after poking around and sniffing at them, we discovered that they’re surprisingly tasty.

The Planters Tavern is a popular bar on the bottom floor of the Pink House, where you’ll often find a jazz singer and pianist. It’s a cool spot to spend a late, relaxed evening. And if you see Habersham’s spirit in the seat next to you, do him a favor and act scared — it’s not easy being the ghost of a big, pink house.

Location on our Savannah Restaurant Map

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