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Thanks for the Memories, Y’all!

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This might be a city which moves slow, but our three months here flew by at a breakneck pace. Savannah had been a friendly, wild and unforgettable place to temporarily call home, and we couldn’t have hoped to have chosen a better city.

Good Bye Savannah

After spending almost a decade in Europe, I had been excited to get back to the USA. And though I might have been returning home, I’m originally from the Midwest, so the deep-fried Southern charm of Savannah would be something totally new to me. From November to January, we kept busy; twenty-two squares, late-night partying on River Street, day trips to South Carolina, kayaking at Tybee Island… and of course, a whole lot of great eating.

Savannah’s Victorian district is lovely, as is the nature which surrounds the city. And the history of the city is fascinating, from the colonial days, through the Civil War and Civil Rights Movement, up into the present day. But more than all that, what we’ll most fondly remember are the people. The eccentric and gracious people of Savannah are far and away its best quality. We’ve never felt so welcomed by a city’s residents, as we did in Savannah, and we made some friendships here that I’m confident will last our whole lives.

Savannah is a special place, and we were sad to leave. But our travel bug was itching, and the next stop on our slow-moving world tour was already calling: Buenos Aires, Argentina. Steaks, tango, Evita, gauchos and pizza, all packed into one of the world’s most amazing cities. It’d be quite a shift from the easy southern charm of Savannah… but we could hardly wait to get going.

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January 27, 2011 at 5:24 pm Comments (10)

Columbia Square

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Although it was neglected throughout much of its history, like most of the city’s eastern side, Columbia Square has now enjoyed a thorough restoration to become one of Savannah’s loveliest spots.

Colombia Square Savannah

The restorative efforts kicked off in the 1950s when a group of society women, concerned about the demolitions which threatened to destroy Savannah’s historic soul, drew the line at the proposed destruction of the 1820 Isaiah Davenport House. They joined forces as the Historic Savannah Foundation, dedicated to protecting the city’s architectural heritage. Over the years, the foundation has purchased and saved over 300 buildings in Savannah’s historic center. Without their labor, the city would be a much more common place.

There are a number of other impressive buildings on Columbia Square, including the house at 130 Habersham, which is usually covered in ivory. But the best might the Kehoe Inn on the western side of the square. This Renaissance Revival mansion dates from 1829, and operates today as a bed and breakfast.

Columbia Square itself is a work of art. Four massive oak trees at each corner provide shade over the entire square, at the center of which sits the Wormsloe Fountain. Green and gray, the rustic fountain was designed in the shapes of leaves and winding ivy. Though it was donated by the plantation’s family in the 1970s, it looks as though it’s been in Columbia Square forever, like it sprouted from the ground.

Location of Calhoun Square on our Savannah Map

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Colombia Square Savannah
Colombia Square Savannah
Colombia Square Savannah
Columbia Square Savannah
Columbia Square Fountain
Fountains of Savannah
Sleeping Beauty
Green House Savannah
Poison Ivy House
Heart Tree
Habersham Lamp
Holidays in Savannah
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Charming Savannah
Inn BnB Savannah
Kehoe House Savannah
The Kehoe House Inn
Detail Savannah
Davenport House
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December 30, 2010 at 12:10 pm Comments (3)

Clary’s for Breakfast!

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Clary’s on Abercorn is the quintessential American greasy spoon, serving breakfast all day long. Omelettes, sausage links, pancakes, grits, and coffee that never stops coming. Ah, American breakfast, how I missed thee!


When I moved to Germany in 2001, I was surprised by how little I missed from the States. Baseball, Reese’s Cups, Thanksgiving… not much else. But the big one was breakfast. Of course they eat breakfast in Europe, but not like we do! Six-egg omelettes stuffed with a farm. The Leaning Tower of Pancake. Cheap filter coffee served by scraggly women who call you honey. “Don’t they got the Waffle House in Europe?” No, they do not! They don’t got the Waffle House.

So when we returned to America and discovered Clary’s, I swooned. Just like any great diner, they’ve got all the old favorites, as well as some creative items on their menu. I’ve had both a classic ham-and-cheese omelette, as well as one filled with apples and cinnamon. The waitresses are just as you’d imagine, matronly and quick on coffee refills. And the prices are cheap. On Sunday mornings, Clary’s is always full, but since there are so many tables that you never have to wait long for a spot.

Lunch is great there, too. Or at least, the reubens are. The first one I had at Clary’s was so good, I never tried anything else.

Location on our Savannah Map

Cheap Flights To Savannah

American Diner
Hopple Popple
Beef Breakfast
Clary's Savannah
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December 10, 2010 at 2:56 pm Comments (4)

The Road to Savannah

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At 3pm on a brisk November afternoon, Jürgen and I parked a smashed-up car in front of our new Savannah home, and pulled our exhausted bodies up the front steps. We had arrived after a whirlwind trip that had brought us from Oviedo, Spain, to Madrid, Chicago, Denver, Ohio, Kentucky and finally southeastern Georgia.

Savannah Tree

And our dog, Chucky, had come with us. The flight from Madrid to Chicago had been long, and she had surely spent every minute howling in the dark solitude of the cargo bay. When her crate arrived into Chicago customs, I picked her up for hugs and kisses, realizing too late that she was covered in puke. There’s no evidence for it, but I’ve convinced myself that she must have vomited at the very end of the flight, and that she didn’t spend ten terrifying, turbulent hours rolling around in her own mess.

My parents let us borrow their car for the trip from Kentucky to Savannah. I repaid that small kindness by backing into the fire hydrant across the street from their house, ripping the bumper off and putting a hideous gash into the side of the car. A great way to start off our new 91-day adventure. Otherwise, the drive went smoothly, and we were soon installed in our new home, anxious to get out and explore the city. It had been ten years since I lived in the USA, and neither Jürgen nor I had never spent much time in the South — this was surely going to be a fascinating three months.

List of hotels in Savannah

Savannah Sign
Savannah Swamp
Savannah Bridge
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November 3, 2010 at 12:19 pm Comments (11)
Thanks for the Memories, Y'all! This might be a city which moves slow, but our three months here flew by at a breakneck pace. Savannah had been a friendly, wild and unforgettable place to temporarily call home, and we couldn't have hoped to have chosen a better city.
For 91 Days