Did you know you can buy Spanish Moss from Amazon?

I clearly remember the first time we entered Savannah, turning onto 37th Street nearly three months ago. Huge oak trees canopied the street and random rays of sunlight squeezed past the Spanish moss, hanging apathetically off branches like the embodiment of sorrow. We drove slowly, transfixed by the beauty of the scene in front of us. Years from now, when I shut my eyes and think “Savannah”, Spanish moss awash in sunlight will be what I see.

Spanish moss doesn’t come from Spain. It’s indigenous to the Southeastern US, spreading from Florida to Maryland and out to Texas. There are a bunch of stories for why it’s named after the Spanish … here’s a particularly poetic one. But most likely, when the English came to the region with Florida already settled by the Spanish, they named this new kind of plant “Spanish beard”.

Spanish moss isn’t a moss, nor is it a parasite. It’s an airborne plant which takes its nutrients directly from the air. It’s actually a member of the same family as the pineapple, which is so bizarre it must be true. Spanish moss doesn’t harm the trees it rests on, predominately Live Oaks and Bald Cypresses, except by making them more wind-resistant which is dangerous during hurricanes.

One of the first things we were told after moving here is that we shouldn’t touch it, because of little bugs which live on it. Of course, this was shortly after we had fashioned a “hilarious” moss outfit for our dog, and wigs for ourselves. I’ve also read that jumping spiders inhabit the plant. So: hands off.

I’ve wondered how much the Spanish moss influences life in the South, if at all. It fits perfectly here, creating an atmosphere of mystery and eccentricity, and also beauty. I don’t know how many pictures of Spanish moss Juergen’s taken during our time in Savannah, but I would guess around a thousand. That’s not hyperbole, that’s my honest guess. Even a cursory glance through our archives will turn up a ton.

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Civil War Savannah

Laid out in 1837 and named in honor of the Polish revolutionary hero, Casimir Pulaski, who died during the Siege of Savannah, Pulaski Square is another of Barnard Street’s quiet, residential squares.

There’s not even a monument to Pulaski! This being Savannah, his memorial obelisk in Monterey Square. Duh. But even though Pulaski Square doesn’t have any monuments, it does have the most impressive collection of Southern Live Oaks of all Savannah’s squares, making it an agreeable place to pass through, or sit for a spell.

Live Oaks, gorgeous residences, Spanish Moss… let’s see, there’s something’s missing. Ah yes: SCAD, of course! There’s not a corner of the city without SCAD’s sticky, paint-caked fingers all over it. The college put its stamp on Pulaski Square in 1995 by purchasing its most stately building: the red brick Pulaski House. Originally built in 1915 by the Jewish Educational Alliance, it’s now used as a girl’s dorm.

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Layed out in 1733, Ellis Square has the distinction of being one of Oglethorpe’s “original four” squares, along with Johnson, Telfair and Wright. It also has the distinction of being the most singularly ugly of all Savannah’s squares.

But it’s not Ellis Square’s fault! Don’t hate on poor Ellis. In 1954, before the historic preservation movement really got going, Ellis Square was sold to a parking association, which demolished it and built a parking lot on top. Hmmm… Ellis Square was sold and lost its dignity. Before the Civil War, Ellis Square was the site of Savannah’s slave market, where people were sold. Karma!

The parking company’s 50-year lease ended in 2004 and Savannah wasted no time in redeveloping Ellis and reclaiming its 22nd square. But, aesthetically, there’s little doubt they did a poor job. You know, it’s modern times and I suppose they wanted to push the envelope, but Ellis is not beautiful or charming. With plain cement in a circular shape and an utter lack of vegetation, most tourists don’t even realize they’re in one of Savannah’s most historic squares.

City Market sprouts off to the west of Ellis Square, right where Susie Chisolm‘s bronze Johnny Mercer leans happily against his fire hydrant. The Lady and Sons is nearby, as is Goose Feather’s cafe and a number of shops. All this marketplace activity is really the only reason to come to Ellis Square. It won’t be for the view.

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